*HD2TOG= half double crochet two together - worked like a decrease
Materials
Size K Crochet Hook (I used this hook from Furls)
4-Ply Worsted Weight Yarn in Black (I used Caron brand)
12" x 12" Pillow Form (I used this one)
30mm SafetyEyes (buy them here)
Poly-Fil Stuffing
Pattern: Front and Back Pieces (Make 2) Ch. 40 Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc across, ch 1 Row 2-25: hdc in 1st st, hdc across
DO NOT FASTEN OFF
Ears Row 1: ch 1, hdc in 1st 10 st, ch 1, turn (10 st) Row 2: hdc across, ch 1, turn (10 st) Row 3: hdc2tog, hdc in next 6 st, hd2tog over last 2 st, ch 1, turn (8 st) Row 4: hdc2tog, hdc in next 4 st, hdc2tog over last 2 st (6 st) Row 5: hdc2tog, hdc in next 2 st, hdc2tog over last 2 st (4 st) Row 6: hdc2tog (x2) (2st) Row 7: hdc2tog (1st) Fasten off -Make second ear by attaching yarn at other end of the piece and repeating the above process. Assembly
Place eyes on one of the pieces. I guesstimated the placement, so go with what is aesthetically pleasing to you.
Starting at inner corner of one ear, begin to single crochet the two pieces together, right side out. Once you have gotten to the inner corner of the second ear, stop and insert pillow form.
Stuff ears.
Single crochet up the remaining stitches, fasten off, and use a tapestry needle to sew in your ends.
Materials:
• 9 Skeins Vanna’s Choice Yarn in Sapphire
• Size G Crochet Hook
• Tapestry Needle (to sew in ends)
• Scissors
How to Make a Bobble Stitch:
*Yarn over, insert yarn in st, pull up loop and draw through two loops on hook; repeat from * 4 more
times and draw through all 6 loops on hook, ch to complete bobble.
To begin, ch 147 Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across (145 st); ch 3, turn. Row 2: dc in 2nd st, dc in each st across; ch 3, turn. Row 3: dc in 2nd st, bobble in next st; *skip next st, dc in next 2 st, bobble in next st; repeat from * across; dc in last st;
ch 2, turn. Row 4: hdc in 2nd st; hdc in each st across; ch 3, turn. Row 5: dc in 2nd st, bobble in next st; *skip next st, dc in next 26 st; bobble in next st; repeat from * across; dc in last st;
ch 2, turn. Row 6: Repeat row 4. Row 7: Repeat row 5. Row 8: Repeat row 4. Row 9: dc in 2nd st; bobble in next st; *skip next st, dc in next 8 st; bobble in next st; [skip next st, dc in next 2 st;
bobble in next st][2X]; skip next st, dc in next 8 st; bobble in next st; repeat from * across; dc in last st; ch 2, turn. Row 10: Repeat row 4. Row 11: dc in 2nd st; bobble in next st; *skip next st, dc in next 6 st; bobble in next st; skip next st, dc in next 10 st;
bobble in next st; skip next st, dc in next 6 st; bobble in next st; repeat from *; dc in last st; ch 2, turn. Row 12: Repeat row 4. Row 13: dc in 2nd st; bobble in next st; *skip next st, dc in next 4 st; bobble in next st; skip next st, dc in next 14 st;
bobble in next st; skip next st, dc in next 4 st; bobble in next st; repeat from *; dc in last st; ch 2, turn. Row 14: Repeat row 4. Row 15: dc in 2nd st; bobble in next st; *skip next st, dc in next 2 st; bobble in next st; skip next st, dc in next 18 st;
bobble in next st; skip next st, dc in next 2 st; bobble in next st; repeat from *; dc in last st; ch 2, turn. Row 16: Repeat row 4. Row 17: Repeat row 13. Row 18: Repeat row 4. Row 19: Repeat row 11. Row 20: Repeat row 4. Row 21: Repeat row 9. Row 22: Repeat row 4. Row 23: Repeat row 5. Row 24: Repeat row 4. Row 25: Repeat row 5. Row 26: Repeat row 4. Row 27: Repeat row 3. Row 28-51: Repeat rows 4-27.
[Note: If you are using baby yarn or you would like a larger throw, you may wish to repeat Rows 4-27 one or
more times before moving on to the last section] Row 52-75: Repeat rows 4-27. Row 76: Repeat row 3. Row 77-78: dc across; ch 3, turn Edging: dc around blanket; in each corner do (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc), repeat as many times as you like.
Bernat Handicrafter Cotton Yarn (You could probably get
at least 2 or 3 bags out of a 12 oz skein)
Cotton makes it durable and much easier to wash if it
gets soiled.
Crochet Hook (I used I but gauge is not important in this
project so use what feel comfortable)
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Abbreviations
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
st: stitch
Pattern
Chain 4
Row 1: 11 dc in 4th chain from hook, join to top of first chain with a sl st (12 st)
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as 1st dc now and throughout entire pattern), dc in same space, 2 dc in each st around (24 st)
Row 3: ch 3, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st, repeat from * around, join with sl st (36 st)
Row 4: ch 3, dc in next stitch, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st, repeat from * around, join with sl st (48 st)
Row 5: ch 3, dc in next 2 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 st, repeat from * around, join with sl st (60 st)
Row 6: ch 3, dc in next 3 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 st, repeat from * around, join with sl st (72 st) Row 7: ch 3, dc in next 4 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 5 st, repeat from * around, join with sl st (84 st) Row 8: ch 3, dc in next 5 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 6 st, repeat from * around, join with sl st (96 st) Row 9: ch 3, dc in next 6 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 7 st, repeat from * around, join with sl st (108 st) Rows 10-12: ch 3, dc in each st around (108 st) Row 13: ch 5, sk 2 st, dc, *ch 2, sk 2 st, dc, repeat from * around, ch 2 and join to 3rd ch of ch 5 with a sl st Row 14-17: ch 5, dc in 2nd ch 2 space, *ch 2, dc in ch 2 space, repeat from * around, ch 2 and join to 3rd ch of ch 5 with a sl st Row 18: ch 3, *2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in dc, repeat from * around, join to first ch 3 with sl st (108 st) Row 19: ch 3, dc around, join with sl st (108 st) Rows 20-24: repeat rows 13 and 14 Rows 25-26: repeat rows 18 and 19 Row 27: ch 40, sk 22 st, sl st, dc in next 30 st, sl st in next st, ch 40, sk 22 st, sl st, dc in next 30 st, sl st in next st Row 28: ch 3, dc in sl st, dc up the ch, in sl st at base of ch, over the next 30 dc, in the sl st at base of 2nd ch, up the 2nd ch in the sl st at base of 2nd ch, across the next 30 dc, join to ch 3 with sl st (144 st) Row 29: ch 3, dc around, join with sl st (144 st) Tie off and sew in ends and you’re ready to go shopping!!!
This pattern was originally available on Etsy, but is now available to you for free! Materials:
400 yards worsted weight yarn
(Note: I used Plymouth Encore
Yarn for this project)
Crochet hook size G/6 (4.00mm)
How to do a bobble stitch: y/o, draw up a loop, pull through 2 loops; repeat four more
times in the same st, draw through all 6 loops on hook
Foundation chain 114
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook, dc across (110 st), turn Row 2: [[ch 2, hdc in same st] counts as one st], hdc in next
two st, *bobble in next st, hdc in next 3 st; repeat from *
across, turn Row 3: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc in next st, dc across (110
st), turn Row 4: [[ch 2, hdc in same st] counts as one st], *bobble in
next st, hdc in next 3 st; repeat from * across; bobble in 2nd
to last st, hdc in last st, turn Row 5: ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), dc across (110 st), turn Rows 6-19: repeat rows 2-5 [Note: For a chunkier scarf, repeat rows 2-5 a few more times]
Assembly: Turn one side of scarf and crochet the ends together so that one end is right
side up and the other is wrong side up. Sew in ends. Enjoy!
5 years ago, a little before National Coming Out Day, I came out as bisexual and demisexual. Perhaps if I had known about this day I would have postponed the announcement? Probably not. The only thing that has changed in these past 5 years is that I now identify as pansexual rather than bi - not a huge difference. At the time I wasn't super aware of the different identities, and when I finally learned about pansexuality the next year I realized it fit better.
Today, I make crocheted pride beanies - not only to validate my own identity, but to support my fellow queer folks in the way I know best. The idea of wearing your pride on your head came to me a little over a year ago, and it has since evolved from 8 basic designs to 22 as people began requesting flags that best fit their identities. I'm so proud of how much this has grown.
Today, in honor of National Coming Out Day, you can get 25% off your Pride Beanie order by using the coupon code NCOD2016.
I recently posted this video to YouTube, showing you a sped up version of how I crocheted my Pokeball, so now I'm going to show you! It's very simple, and I didn't have to do much work to figure out the pattern.
What You'll Need
Size F crochet hook
1 skein of white yarn, 1 skein of red yarn, and 1 skein of black yarn
use worsted weight, Red Heart Supersaver is what I used
you can get several pokeballs out of just one skein of each, so you can use scrap yarn if you have it on hand.
Stuffing
Stitch Marker
Tapestry Needle
Scissors
The first thing we'll do is make the button, then set it aside so we can sew it over a little over halfway through the pattern.
Button
P1: with black
Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join (6 st)
Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in same st, 2 sc around, join (12 st)
F/O, leaving a long tail at the end to use for sewing and set aside
P2: with white
Rnd 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join (6 st)
F/O, leaving a long tail at the end
Assembly: Sew the white piece onto the black piece to form the button and set aside.
Pokeball
The next thing you'll want to do is go to the sphere generator. I use this generator every single time I need to make spherical designs. It does all the work for you, and you get a perfect sphere every time. For this pattern, I inputted 40 stitches as my sphere circumference. The resulting pokeball was the perfect size to fit in the palm of your hand. If you want a larger or smaller pokeball, simply adjust the circumference number.
If you input a circumference of 40, the generator will give you a pattern consisting of 21 rows. The pattern may look funky, so if you're having difficulty following it, continue on to my translation below. Remember that this pattern is worked in the round, meaning that you will not join at the end of your rows. Insert a stitch marker into your beginning stitch for each row so that you don't lose your place.
With Red
Rnd 1: ch 2, make 5 sc in the 2nd st from the hook (5 st)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in first 4 st, 3 sc in last st(11 st)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 st, [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st][4x] (16 st)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, [sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st][3x] (21 st)
Rnd 5: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st][3x] (26 st)
Rnd 6: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st, [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st][2x] (30 st)
Rnd 7: sc in next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st (34 st)
Rnd 8: sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 16 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 14 st (36 st)
Rnd 9: sc in next 10 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 17 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 st (38 st)
Rnd 10: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 18 st][2x] (40 st)
With Black
Rnd 11: sc in each st around (40 st)
With White
Rnd 12: sc in each st around (40 st)
Rnd 13: sc in next 9 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 18 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 9 st (38 st)
Rnd 14: [dec over next 2 st, sc in next 17 st][2x] (36 st)
Rnd 15: sc in next 10 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 16 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 6 st (34 st)
***Sew on Button*** (Note: You will notice an area where the black stripe looks a bit uneven, use the button to cover it)
Rnd 16: sc in next st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 7 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 7 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 5 st (30 st)
Rnd 17: sc in next 4 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 5 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next st (26 st)
Rnd 18: sc in next 2 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 3 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 4 st, [dec over next 2 st, sc in next 3 st][2x], dec over next 2 st, sc in next st (21 st)
***Stuff the Ball***
Rnd 19: sc in next st, dec over next 2 st, [dec over next 2 st, sc in next 2 st][2x], dec over next 2 st, sc in next 3 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next 2 st, dec over next 2 st, sc in next st (16 st)
Rnd 20: [sc in next st, dec over next 2 st][5x], sc in next st (11 st)
(Note: at this point I added more stuffing. For this pattern you really need to pack the stuffing in tightly to avoid having a slightly elongated pokeball)
Rnd 21: [dec over next 2 st][4x], dec over next 3 st (5 st)
Draw closed, F/O
And voila! You have a finished pokeball. This pattern was designed to fit perfectly in the palm of your hand, just like a real pokeball would. You can use this pokeball as a decoration on your desk or a shelf, or you can go to the park and annoy Pokemon GO players by throwing it at random birds and loudly exclaiming that you're "gonna catch that pidgey". *****PLEASE DO NOT HURT BIRDS THO*****
I'm crafting my Christmas presents, so that means writing simple and quick patterns because I want to churn out my gifts quickly (procrastinator to the extreme!) but I'm too pretentious to take the easy route and use someone else's pattern. It's not unique, but since I'm not looking at anything it's probably juuuuuuust original enough to post.
For this hat you need a size J hook (smaller or larger depending on head size and tension) and one skein of Red Heart Super Saver yarn. I used Charcoal for this project.
MAIN HAT
ch 4
RND1: make 11 dc in 4th ch from hook, join w/ sl st (12 st)
RND2: ch 3, dc in same sp, 2 dc in each st around, join w/ sl st
RND3: ch 3, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 st, repeat from *, join w/ sl st
RND4: ch 3, dc in next 2 st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 st, repeat from *, join w/ sl st
RND5: ch 3, dc in next 3 st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 st, repeat from *, join w/ sl st
RND6: ch 3, dc in next 4 st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 5 st, repeat from *, join w/ sl st
RND7: ch 3, dc in next 5 st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 st, repeat from *, join w/ sl st
RND8: ch 3, dc in next 6 st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next 7 st, repeat from *, join w/ sl st
RND9-14: dc around, join w/ sl st (72 st)
f/o
BAND
ch 10
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (9 st)
R2-72: [BLO] ch 1, sc in same st, sc across
ch1, hold ends of band together and sl st it together, do not f/o
ASSEMBLY
Turn hat inside out, place band around the bottom and sc it to the main hat. Turn hat rightside out and flip the band up, concealing the sc row inside
